An edited version
of this essay appeared in 'Downs Country' Magazine No 22 May/June 1998 A family is
more than just beginnings and endings, a transference of genes ... I like it here
because - well, firstly because I suppose I'm just pre-programmed to like it.
Ten generations of Whitbourns have lived out their blameless yeoman - and printer
and publican - lives roundabouts from the seventeenth century onwards. The first
I know of, Henry Whitbourn (?-1708), the 'Abraham' of our tribe, farmed Tiltham's
Farm a shade over a mile from my present house beside the North Downs. Succeeding
generations ventured off a few miles here, a few miles there, but without exception
remained 'sons of Surrey' - and Downs country, south-west Surreymen at that.
That sort of continuity is rare nowadays and I value it. If my forebears' collective
wisdom approved of their homeland then who am I to differ ? What's bred in
the bone comes out in the meat as the old country saying goes. On the other
hand, I've a mind of my own and if the place didn't suit I'd be on my way. After
all, we Whitbourns can't stay put till Judgement Day or humanity reaches the
Galactic Rim! (or can we?). There must be positive reasons for remaining as
well as the inertia of history and family piety. Obviously there's something
to this area because They all come back is another local saying. Crazy
property prices and 'gentrification' notwithstanding, it remains true. I did. As a youth
I didn't fully appreciate the richness of Downs Country heritage: all the propaganda
of the age was against it. Love of your locality was - just about - okay for
quaint Tuscan peasants encountered on holiday or - at a pinch - the occasional
'ethnic' Scot, but a sense of place amongst the plain old English ? Too,
too, ghastly darling .... The 'swinging sixties and seventies' wasn't having
any of that! I needed to
travel and live in other places, like London, Reading, Wales and Scotland, to
learn that there were worse things than home - a lot worse in some cases
(memories of the London concrete wastelands for instance). So I 'came back'.
like they all do apparently. Came back to
what? To a place amongst the least vivacious and most threatened people
in the world (according to The Guardian and a Russian political commentator
respectively), the aboriginal south-east English. This still isn't widely accounted
a first prize in life: ours is a unfashionable tradition. Amongst the hot-house
blooms of the London media set we're accounted to live in the Stockbroker
belt and so presumably we're all filthy rich stockbrokers. Well, we have
to pay stockbroker prices ..... That facile
prejudgement, that writing-off of us and everything-we-are really riles me.
Sure, there are rich slices of Surrey - and Sussex and Kent, well-to-do pockets
of affluence parachuted into the generality. The proximity of the Great Wen
[cyst ] as the Downs Country hero William Cobbett called it, BabyLondon
the Great, means it could hardly be otherwise. Yet that's
to wipe out the remaining 95 or whatever % of us who don't live the stockbroker
lifestyle because they're just plain ordinary folks, earning I dare say, a fraction
of the salaries of those prejudiced commentators. Our entire life and history
and presence are dismissed as invisible or contemptible with a few taps of a
thoughtless journalist's keyboards. The same thought process is used to dismiss
whole continents: the rich vastness of South America becoming merely Uncle
Sam's backyard apparently. Therefore,
so what if property prices ethnically-cleanse whole Surrey villages of Surrey
villager life, as threatened, for example, in the two Clandons and Horsleys?
So what if our way of life is systematically ignored or derided? Dafydd Wigley,
the leader of Plaid Cymry dismissed us as gin-soaked Surrey. We're supposed
to just take that. It doesn't matter because we don't exist, not like
real people such as Welsh speakers or Islington intellectuals. No, what I
like about the real South Country - or just one of the things - is that there
really are - still - deep ties of history binding here; binding people here
and binding them together. There's old family names which crop up time and time
again when you consult the parish registers and militia lists and charitable
subscriptions. Many of them remain with us. I can recall the litany of those
names from school register days - I may not have much liked some of their modern
incarnations - but I now recognise their age old rootedness. They'd come back
- if they'd ever been away. None of this
need be an exclusive sort of thing. It has to be recognised that modern day
people move around to the point of bewilderment. Sometimes that only acts for
good: new blood comes in and finds a place to love and both parties are thereby
enriched. Many of those I know to be most devoted to the history and preservation
of the South Country are 'newcomers' and all the more welcome and vocal and
convinced for that reason. It's as it should be, for the entity - of whatever
sort - that doesn't at least take notice of the new is on the inward looking
road to fossilisation - and then oblivion. Contrawise,
I think there's few things sadder than to (over)hear someone boast Oh, I
don't care where I live; it's all the same to me! In my humble opinion they're
missing out. When granddad lived in London, dad lives in Bristol, son moves
on to Dundee and grandson's destined for Brussels - and they're all the same
to them - then every place is just a temporary dormitory - and will be treated
as such. But, as I've
said, there's got to be more than roots. Does anyone love Tolworth
or Toxteth even if their family moved there just after the ice sheets retreated?
There must be things to love. Well, I do
have more than the backpack of history weighing me down to here. In my books
I've been known to wax quite loquacious about those reasons (About Zion I
will not be silent, About Jerusalem I will not grow weary. Isaiah 62:1) Binscombe was
probably born in the Iron age, if not earlier, and then adopted by the Romans
with their villas and comforts and continental civilisation. It was refounded
by our own Saxon 'Moses', Buden the Saxon. Though definitely around at the time,
the Domesday Book, the Norman's loot-tally, looked straight through
us - and there, doubtless, hangs a tale. It was thus not until 1227 that Binscombe
(or Budenescumbe, 'Buden's valley') felt ready to stride, gorgeous and
pouting, onto the world stage (well, the Rotuli Litterarum Clausarum) for
its first written reference. Amidst all
the only-to-be-expected mundanity, it has .... interesting features - like most
places if you only look. Nearby - in the 'old tongue' - is Dragon Hill
and Wild Cat Hill and Witch's Valley. The pagan gods lingered
longer roundabouts, and left a renowned group of missionary-proof place names
like Tue(Tiw)sley and Thur(Thor?)sley. A suspicious looking bump
bides unregarded in the fields below Binscombe Ridge, perhaps a second Silbury
Hill awaiting its Howard Carter. On this landscape
trod some remarkable people, such as Theophilus Oglethorpe, valiant soldier
and Jacobite, duellist and all-round English-icon who had the good taste to
buy Binscombe Manor. In 1685 his mad cavalry charge into Keynsham changed the
course of our history, and the great truism dead men tell no tales may
be attributable to him. Back when the
Quakers were dangerous radicals, their founder, George Fox, came to Binscombe
and the barn he preached in bears his name. As a result we have our very own
martyr, done-in by the Church of England back in 1660. Thomas Patching of Binscombe
Farm heard Fox's words and took them to heart, dying in a foreign land (Kingston-upon-Thames
gaol) accordingly. His body, brought home, now rests (one trusts) in the old
Quaker burial ground beside that very barn. Not far away,
in Godalming, Mary Tofts astounded the 18th century by giving birth
to 18 rabbits we have her word on it). In the adjoining and equally loved
Farncombe, the telegraphist-hero, Jack Phillips, of Titanic fame, grew
up and became what he was. A short way down the road, in a hamlet still isolated-obscure,
a lone Saxon, Wulfwy the Hunter retained his land even after the Norman
ethnic cleansing. And a 'person' of sorts (no less revered), has made its home
amongst us for several centuries now: the Surrey Puma, indigenous, mysterious
and never-yet caught, still prowls round about and makes the local papers most
summers. In short there's
romance and mystery aplenty in this little valley and ancient village and not
so ancient council estate. From it I take inspiration for my books and most
of them have either been set here or at least make honourable mention of it.
Even in Popes &
Phantoms, set amidst the Italian Renaissance, I couldn't help but drag
its anti-hero, Admiral Slovo, all the way to England's South-country for a typically
murderous adventure. My To
Build Jerusalem must be one of only a select few science-fantasy novels
to be mainly set in Guildford! And next year, God willing, I pay proper tribute
to my homeland with the Binscombe
Tales,
the at-long-last collected version of a monster (sic) series of local-set supernatural
tales published separately and variously since 1987. 1998 should also represent
light of day for my The
Royal Changeling, a quasi-historical story mainly set in the Godalming
and Binscombe area, featuring the aforementioned Theophilus Oglethorpe. All in all,
I feel privileged to have been born and raised here, and lucky to been able
to come back. If I can praise the place in print then I shall - and thus
feel that I've paid my debt - in some small part - to the beloved South Country
!
it is a history, a way of looking at things, shared jokes and a special dialect
- and, if it's lucky, a locality - Unknown
speaker on BBC2, early 1990s
A Binscombe Tales Spiel - A complete list of Binscombe Tales - Homage to Surrey